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Knit Better Intarsia: Tips for Joins / Spiral Hill Sweater Vest Knit Along Lesson 3

November 2, 2023 Leave a Comment

How to knit better Intarsia | If you feel anxiety when it comes to knitting intarsia, you're not alone. This tutorial should help assuage that anxiety - it's all about how to knit better (cleaner, crisper, more even) intarsia joins.

If you feel anxiety when it comes to knitting intarsia, you’re not alone. This tutorial, which includes a video demonstration of the tips and concepts covered, should help assuage that anxiety. Today is all about how to knit better (cleaner, crisper, more even) intarsia joins.

In intarsia knitting, changing between one color and another is referred to as a join. You’ll encounter a few different kinds of intarsia joins, depending on the pattern you’re knitting. There’s joining a new color to start knitting a section in that color, and there are vertical, diagonal and horizontal joins.

How to knit better Intarsia | If you feel anxiety when it comes to knitting intarsia, you're not alone. This tutorial should help assuage that anxiety - it's all about how to knit better (cleaner, crisper, more even) intarsia joins.

“Horizontal Intarsia Joins“

A horizontal join doesn’t really exist in intarsia because at that point, your technique is essentially the same as working a row of stranded colorwork (also known as fair isle) knitting. You’ll work with floats, which are the strands of unknit yarn that run across the back of your knitting when you’re knitting with more than one color in the same row. With any stranded knitting, the trick is to avoid over or under-tensioning your floats so the stitches on the right side of the fabric appear even, without puckering.

How to knit better Intarsia | If you feel anxiety when it comes to knitting intarsia, you're not alone. This tutorial should help assuage that anxiety - it's all about how to knit better (cleaner, crisper, more even) intarsia joins.

Vertical and Diagonal Intarsia Joins

Vertical and diagonal joins happen all the time in intarsia. Vertical joins occur when several rows’ joins align, well, vertically on top of one another for several rows. On right side rows, which are usually comprised of knit stitches, you’ll knit in your row until it’s time to change colors. Then you’ll drop your working yarn, bring up the new color from beneath the old one, and continue to knit in the new color. Since this is a vertical join, the time to change colors will be obvious.  

Vertical Joins Tip

Observant knitters who’ve tried intarsia before may have noticed that their end-of-section stitches end up a little bigger than they’d prefer, and this phenomenon is especially obvious on vertical color changes. To achieve more even vertical joins, it’s not some magic involving extra twists or weaving in ends in some special way or even blocking. It’s a simple tug on the tail of the new color of yarn you’re switching to before knitting into it, working a vertical intarsia join.

For me, this phenomenon is better suited to explanation via video, so please check out what I’m describing in the video embedded below. A photo tutorial is linked at the bottom of this post in the Useful Links section as well.

Diagonal Joins Tip

Rather than occurring in a straight line, diagonal intarsia joins are offset, often by just a few stitches. The main thing to keep in mind is not over tensioning your working yarn. A trick I use, especially if I’m worried about a particularly wide diagonal join, is borrowed from two-handed stranded colorwork knitting. I work the diagonal intarsia join, then I grab the dropped yarn with my right hand pinky as if to tension it for knitting throwing style. That opens up the little intarsia float in the new color, which can help with tension.

No matter the type of intarsia join you’re working (vertical, diagonal, right side, wrong side), intarsia joins are simply a matter of bringing the new yarn up from under the working yarn, the old yarn over the new. Often this action is described as a twist, but thinking of it as a handshake or two people walking with their elbows linked is more helpful.

How to knit better Intarsia | If you feel anxiety when it comes to knitting intarsia, you're not alone. This tutorial should help assuage that anxiety - it's all about how to knit better (cleaner, crisper, more even) intarsia joins.

Video Tutorial: Tips for Better Vertical & Diagonal Intarsia Joins

And here’s those tips in video form, because sometimes a demonstration is the simplest way to illustrate a 3D concept. :)

How to knit better Intarsia | If you feel anxiety when it comes to knitting intarsia, you're not alone. This tutorial should help assuage that anxiety - it's all about how to knit better (cleaner, crisper, more even) intarsia joins.

Useful links about intarsia joins

Neater Intarsia: A simple fix for uneven stitches around a vertical color change – Yarnsub
Shout out to this post for existing – I thought I was being weird by manually tensioning vertical joins to make them extra crispy before I found this post. Now we can all have crispy joins together!

Intarsia Join – Åsa Tricosa
A straight-to-the-point overview with photos of how to do intarsia joins. I’m obsessed with their description of intarsia joins and referenced part of it in the introduction to this post. Here’s the full quote: “There is nothing mysterious nor difficult about changing colours between one block of colour and another. This is sometimes referred to as an intarsia join. The rule: OLD OVER new. Then you bring up the new yarn around the old. No twisting or any other shenanigans.” … To me, this is like poetry. 😆

How to knit better Intarsia | If you feel anxiety when it comes to knitting intarsia, you're not alone. This tutorial should help assuage that anxiety - it's all about how to knit better (cleaner, crisper, more even) intarsia joins.

Filed Under: Knit Along, Knitting Tagged With: diagonal joins, horizontal joins, intarsia, intarsia joins, intarsia knitting, intarsia tension, knit along, Knitting, knitting gauge, knitting tension, spiral hill sweater vest, spiral hill sweater vest knit along, vertical joins

About Heidi

Heidi Gustad (she/her) is a craft book author & designer specializing in yarn crafts. Her work combines vintage and modern design elements, prioritizing color and graphic motifs. Her first book, Latch Hook: 12 Projects for the Modern Maker, is out now.

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Heidi Gustad from Hands Occupied / Craft Book Author and Knitting, Crochet, Latch Hook and Macrame Designer

Hi! I’m Heidi (she/her/hers), and I’ve been helping yarn crafters untangle various techniques on the internet since 2010. I got my start here, as a blogger, and since then I’ve shared more than a few tutorials here and on YouTube as I’ve grown as a pattern designer. 🧶 

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handsoccupied

Knitting & yarn crafts designer 🧶
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Stay up-to-date 💌 & shop new patterns ⤵️

Surprise, I had a baby 3 weeks ago! The pregnancy Surprise, I had a baby 3 weeks ago! The pregnancy was high risk, so I chose to be quiet about it online until recently.

My son was born on Saturday 8/30. My water broke at 2 am, and he was born at 11:26 am, which the nurses kept telling us was very fast for a first labor. He weighed 5 lbs 14.2 oz and was 18.5” long. 

My husband & I both put so much effort into educating ourselves about pregnancy and natural childbirth, and when we found out an induction was highly likely, we embraced the lack of control we had in favor of hoping the baby would arrive healthy. To our surprise, he arrived spontaneously at 37 weeks + 4 days, and the labor progressed so quickly, we did end up with a natural labor experience (which I was glad I was prepared for! 😮‍💨😅).

We’re all happy and healthy. June has become his little nanny dog and makes sure we know when he’s crying or has a dirty diaper. We are very grateful for all the love and support we’ve already received from friends and family. Much love to everyone! ❤️❤️❤️
POV: Showing you how my new Bevelled Tank pattern POV: Showing you how my new Bevelled Tank pattern fits with no ease vs. 4” of positive ease. There’s a bit more length to the cotton (brighter color) sample, but both are cropped and feature shoulder seams designed to sit an inch back onto the shoulder instead of on top, giving it a little swing. Length is easily adjustable for folks looking for less of a crop. 
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Pattern: Bevelled Tank by @handsoccupied for @pompommag x @hobbii_yarn summer 2024. Available for free from Hobbii at the 🔗 in my profile.
Yarn pictured: @kelbournewoolens Skipper and Camper. 
Dress form is adjusted to a 36” chest and ~5’3”ish in height. 
Human has a 40” chest and is 5’5”.
Both skirts are vintage.
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #handsoccupied #intarsia #handmade #knitting #colorwork
Let’s talk about fit and ease! . During the Beve Let’s talk about fit and ease!
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During the Bevelled Tank design process for @pompommag, I knit 2 samples using 2 different @KelbourneWoolens yarns. One was in Skipper (100% cotton, second photo) and the other was in Camper (100% 2 ply wool). The Skipper sample was knit for a 36” bust, which measures in at 40” with 4” of positive ease. And I knit the Camper Sample for my 40” bust with a 44” finished measurement. (BTW, I’m 5’5” for folks that find that measurement helpful in visualizing fit.)
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Based on the size chart for the Bevelled Tank, that means I knit one size 3 sample and one size 4. As designed, I conveniently fit a size 4 as intended with 4” of positive ease. When I wear the 3, there is no ease at all because the garment and my body are both 40” in size. Comparing the 2 garments, you can see how the fiber content (cotton vs. wool) and fit (no ease vs. 4” of positive ease) makes a difference in the look and feel of the finished garment. 
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These samples are a great way to compare what ease looks like on different bodies. While I can fit both a size 3 and 4, the garment with no ease feels more like pajamas or a bralette when I wear it. On the other hand, when I wear the one with 4” of positive ease, I feel comfortable enough to wear it to work, even as a crop top. Plus, it leaves me with enough room to layer it with a nice button down if I’m not feeling the cropped look one day. 
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I’m curious - how would you style this tank? Would you modify it with a few stockinette rows for added length? I’m so curious now that this pattern is finally out in the world. :) 
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #bevelledtank #handsoccupied #knitting #intarisa #handmade #kelbournewoolens #croppedsweater #summerknits
After a 6 month hiatus, I am happy to say I’m ba After a 6 month hiatus, I am happy to say I’m back with a brand new pattern in 9 sizes, and it’s FREE as part of @pompommag x @hobbii_yarn’s summer design collection! (Link is in my bio.)
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In my December newsletter, I announced that I was soliciting test knitters for a pattern that had originally been selected for the summer ’24 issue of Pom Pom Quarterly magazine. However, the magazine ceased publication after its spring ’24 issue, leaving in-progress designs unpublished. (It happens.) As a result, I’d begun the long process of editing, testing, and photographing the pattern for independent release through the Hands Occupied pattern shop and Ravelry.
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Before I was done with that process, Pom Pom Quarterly’s former editors reached out with an exciting proposal for the pattern. Post-magazine, they’ve begun to partner with yarn companies to produce high quality pattern collections. They wanted to include designs from the would-be current issue of Pom Pom Quarterly in a new collection for Hobbii yarn, including my Bevelled Tank. I worked with the same technical editors I would have for the magazine on this one, and as you can see from the photos, Pom Pom’s team did an amazing job of styling the garment to the beautiful standards they’re known for.
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You can learn more about the pattern on my blog and get the free pattern from Hobbii yarn - links to both in my profile. I’ll post sizing info in the comments for quick reference too. 🧶
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #knitting #intarsia #sponsored #colorworkknitting 
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Photos: @dianascarrunz 
Model: @angel.jade_
Here’s a nice throwback for you: my take on a vi Here’s a nice throwback for you: my take on a vintage knitting pattern from 1938 called the Fernlace Pullover. A pattern so nice, I knit it twice.
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Yellow version 💛: knit with Despondent Dyes’ Vintage Vixen Sport after attending a @squidneyknits vintage knitting retreat in 2019 & learning *so much*. Paired with a self-drafted circle skirt pattern. 
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Blue version 💙: knit with @eweeweyarns Ewe So Sporty in Sky Blue. Paired with the 1940s Boardwalk Duet sewing pattern from @decades_of_style 
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Head to my stories for 🔗🔗 to the handmade wardrobe blog posts I wrote about each take on the Fernlace Pullover, working with a vintage pattern, where to find vintage patterns (including the one I used), & some thoughts on sizing. 
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Image descriptions available in alt text. 
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#handsoccupied #handmadewardrobe #fernlacepullover #vintageknitting #vintageknittingpatterns #knitting_inspiration
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