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Do the math, get the fit / Fall Knit Along Day 1

October 1, 2014 3 Comments

Do the math, get the fit / Fall Knit Along Day 1 at handsoccupied.com

It’s here! The fall knit along (KAL) featuring the Remy Pullover casts on… today! For this sweater, you’ll need to be able to knit in the round, purl, knit decreases, cast on and cast off. Now, you’ll notice our sweater has some cabling too. If cables give you the willies, you can simply knit stockinette stitch where the cables are.

If you’ve been out of the loop, check out this post for what’s up with the fall knit along and what supplies you’ll need.

First thing’s first! Know your size.

Grab a friend and a measuring tape, and get your measurements. Since this fall’s KAL is brought to you by Lion Brand Yarn, I’m going to go ahead and share my go-to guide for measuring yourself for a knit sweater. It’s a guest post by New Stitch a Day on Lion Brand’s website, and covers everything you need to know about measuring for a sweater. For this sweater, you’ll only need to measure your bust (for me: 40″), neck (14ish”), raglan (7″), body length (12″ from armpit to widest part of hips), natural waist (30″), hips (40″), and wrist (6″).

Yup, I’m a natural hourglass size M/L. I didn’t want to do any tailoring into my 10″ narrower waist on this pattern since that’s a pain, so the body/torso of the sweater is simply constructed as a big tube. Pullovers are supposed to be nice and chill and comfy, right? :)

Do the math, get the fit / Fall Knit Along Day 1 at handsoccupied.com

image via New Stitch a Day/Lion Brand

Second thing’s second! Test your gauge!

It’s not everyone’s favorite thing in the world, but making a test swatch of your yarn is everso important. I knit myself a simple stockinette swatch of 28 stitches by 20 rows. For new swatchers, you’ll cast on 28 stitches and work 20 rows, alternating a row of knitting and a row of purling.

I did block my swatch of Wool Ease yarn using my usual blocking technique. I measured my gauge before and after blocking, and since Wool Ease is 80% acrylic and 20% wool, I noticed no difference in the gauge I was getting before and after blocking my swatch. In basic terms, that means this yarn don’t shrink.

My gauge: 11 rows and 8.5 sts over 2 inches, a.k.a. 22 rows and 17 sts over 4 inches, a.k.a. 5.5 rows and 4.25 sts over one inch.

Do the math, get the fit / Fall Knit Along Day 1 at handsoccupied.com

Third thing’s third! Do the math.

We’re knitting this sweater from the bottom up, starting with the tube that forms the body (torso) of the sweater. So based on my gauge swatch and personal hip measurement, I need to multiply my 4.25 stitches per inch by 40 inches for my hips. 40 x 4.25 is 170. Since 170/2 is 85 and I wanted a number evenly divisible by 4 for this pattern, I decided to cast on 172 stitches, which divides by 4 to 43 evenly.

If you do your math and get an odd number or a number not divisible by 4, you need to decide if you want to round down or up a couple stitches. Why? Because the first several rows of the sweater are a knit 1, purl 1 rib worked in the round. When you work a rib in the round, there has to be an even number of stitches so the rib repeats perfectly in pattern around the edge. And why divisible by 4? Because I like symmetry in my patterns sometimes, that’s why! ;)

Make sense? If not, please remember to holler in the comments or the KAL Ravelry group for any clarification you need. I’m here to help.

Finally cast on already!

I recommend using the long tail tubular cast on for this sweater since it’s very stretchy and this is a bottom up sweater. Last week I made two videos sharing how to do a long tail tubular cast on left and right handed. Since the long tail tubular cast on takes two setup rows to complete, the ribbing I have on the sweater’s hem is 7 rows. If you do the long tail tubular cast on, that would be 2 rows of cast on setup rows, plus 5 rows of k1, p1.

The Remy Pullover: Knit Along Day 1 Pattern

Sizing:
In the pattern, I’ve done the math for you already for standard XS-XXL sizes, but the beauty of knitting your own sweater is that you can do the math and get a custom fit. If you want help doing the math for another size, drop me a line at handsoccupied-at-gmail-dot-com or comment or join in on Ravelry.

XS – 33.25 inch hip / 23.25 inch waist / 31.5 inch bust
S – 35.5 / 25.5 / 33.5
M – 37.5 / 27.5 / 35.5
L – 40 / 29.5 / 37.5
XL – 43 / 33 / 40.5
XXL – 47 / 37 / 44

Abbreviations:
CO – cast on
k – knit
p – purl
LCx2 – work 4 stitches in a left leaning cable (2 stitches over 2 stitches)
LCx3 – work 6 stitches in a left leaning cable (3 stitches over 3 stitches)

Size XS

CO 140 sts
rows 1-7. k1, p1 around
row 8-9. k 16, p2, k4, p2 k6, p2, k4, p2, k 102
row 10. k 16, p2, LCx2, p2, LCx3, p2, LCx2, p2, k 102
rows 11-15. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
row 16. k 16, p2, LCx2, p2, k6, p2, LCx2, p2, k 102
rows 17-21. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
Repeat rows 10-21 to desired length.

Size S

CO 152 sts
rows 1-7. k1, p1 around
row 8-9. k 22, p2, k4, p2 k6, p2, k4, p2, k 108
row 10. k 22, p2, LCx2, p2, LCx3, p2, LCx2, p2, k 108
rows 11-15. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
row 16. k 22, p2, LCx2, p2, k6, p2, LCx2, p2, k 108
rows 17-21. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
Repeat rows 10-21 to desired length.

Size M

CO 160 sts
rows 1-7. k1, p1 around
row 8-9. k 26, p2, k4, p2 k6, p2, k4, p2, k 112
row 10. k 26, p2, LCx2, p2, LCx3, p2, LCx2, p2, k 112
rows 11-15. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
row 16. k 26, p2, LCx2, p2, k6, p2, LCx2, p2, k 112
rows 17-21. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
Repeat rows 10-21 to desired length.

Size L

CO 172 sts
rows 1-7. k1, p1 around
row 8-9. k 32, p2, k4, p2 k6, p2, k4, p2, k 118
row 10. k 32, p2, LCx2, p2, LCx3, p2, LCx2, p2, k 118
rows 11-15. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
row 16. k 32, p2, LCx2, p2, k6, p2, LCx2, p2, k 118
rows 17-21. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
Repeat rows 10-21 to desired length. (I’m a size L, and for me, that was repeating rows 10-21 a total of 8 times.)

Size XL

CO 184 sts
rows 1-7. k1, p1 around
row 8-9. k 38, p2, k4, p2 k6, p2, k4, p2, k 124
row 10. k 38, p2, LCx2, p2, LCx3, p2, LCx2, p2, k 124
rows 11-15. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
row 16. k 38, p2, LCx2, p2, k6, p2, LCx2, p2, k 124
rows 17-21. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
Repeat rows 10-21 to desired length.

Size XXL

CO 200 sts
rows 1-7. k1, p1 around
row 8-9. k 46, p2, k4, p2 k6, p2, k4, p2, k 132
row 10. k 46, p2, LCx2, p2, LCx3, p2, LCx2, p2, k 132
rows 11-15. repeat row 8 (5 rows)
row 16. k 46, p2, LCx2, p2, k6, p2, LCx2, p2, k 132
rows 17-21. repeat row 8 (5 rows)

Repeat rows 10-21 to desired length.

Phew! That was a lot! Again, let me know if you need support on anything by leaving a comment or joining the Ravelry group for this KAL. If you’re on Instagram or Twitter, don’t forget to share your in-progress sweaters with the hashtag #handsoccupiedkal.

The Fall 2014 Knit Along: Knit the Remy Pullover at Hands Occupied

The fall knit along is brought to you by Lion Brand Yarns. Check out Lion Brand on social media: Facebook / Twitter / Instagram / Pinterest. If you’re still needing to buy your yarn, you can get 20% off Wool Ease yarn from Lion Brand with the coupon code handsoccupied14 at lionbrand.com! The code’s good through October 17. 

—

Other posts in this series:

  1. Announcing the fall knit along! The Remy Pullover
  2. How to do a long tail tubular cast on (optional tutorial for the cast on I like for this pattern)
  3. Do the math, get the fit / Fall Knit Along Day 1
  4. Knit Along Tips, Tricks & An Official Schedule
  5. Knit Along Day 2: Sleeve time!
  6. Fall KAL Day 3: The Other Sleeve
  7. How to attach sleeves / KAL Day 4
  8. How to knit a raglan decrease / KAL Day 5
  9. How to knit the collar / KAL Day 6
  10. more coming soon!

Filed Under: Giveaways, Reviews & Sponsored, Knit Along, Knitting, Knitting & Crochet Tagged With: fall2014kal, handsoccupiedkal, kal, knit, knit along, knitalong, Knitting, remy pullover, sweater

About Heidi

Heidi Gustad (she/her) is a craft book author & designer specializing in yarn crafts. Her work combines vintage and modern design elements, prioritizing color and graphic motifs. Her first book, Latch Hook: 12 Projects for the Modern Maker, is out now.

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Comments

  1. Heather

    October 1, 2014 at 6:58 am

    Yay! yay! yay! Can’t wait to get the kids to school so I can get started on this! Thanks so much for sharing this pattern!

    Reply
  2. Sarah

    October 18, 2014 at 12:16 pm

    When we finish the body do we leave a tail of a certain length like the sleeves?

    Reply
    • Heidi

      October 18, 2014 at 7:11 pm

      Just leave the body attached to the skein of yarn you’re working. You’ll use it again later. If you broke your yarn, it’s 100% ok too! You can grab another skein when we get to the point where you’ll attach your sleeves. Great question, Sarah! -Heidi

      Reply

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Heidi Gustad from Hands Occupied / Craft Book Author and Knitting, Crochet, Latch Hook and Macrame Designer

Hi! I’m Heidi (she/her/hers), and I’ve been helping yarn crafters untangle various techniques on the internet since 2010. I got my start here, as a blogger, and since then I’ve shared more than a few tutorials here and on YouTube as I’ve grown as a pattern designer. 🧶 

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Heidi Gustad 🧶 knitting & yarn crafts

handsoccupied

Knitting & yarn crafts designer 🧶
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Stay up-to-date 💌 & shop new patterns ⤵️

POV: Showing you how my new Bevelled Tank pattern POV: Showing you how my new Bevelled Tank pattern fits with no ease vs. 4” of positive ease. There’s a bit more length to the cotton (brighter color) sample, but both are cropped and feature shoulder seams designed to sit an inch back onto the shoulder instead of on top, giving it a little swing. Length is easily adjustable for folks looking for less of a crop. 
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Pattern: Bevelled Tank by @handsoccupied for @pompommag x @hobbii_yarn summer 2024. Available for free from Hobbii at the 🔗 in my profile.
Yarn pictured: @kelbournewoolens Skipper and Camper. 
Dress form is adjusted to a 36” chest and ~5’3”ish in height. 
Human has a 40” chest and is 5’5”.
Both skirts are vintage.
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #handsoccupied #intarsia #handmade #knitting #colorwork
Let’s talk about fit and ease! . During the Beve Let’s talk about fit and ease!
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During the Bevelled Tank design process for @pompommag, I knit 2 samples using 2 different @KelbourneWoolens yarns. One was in Skipper (100% cotton, second photo) and the other was in Camper (100% 2 ply wool). The Skipper sample was knit for a 36” bust, which measures in at 40” with 4” of positive ease. And I knit the Camper Sample for my 40” bust with a 44” finished measurement. (BTW, I’m 5’5” for folks that find that measurement helpful in visualizing fit.)
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Based on the size chart for the Bevelled Tank, that means I knit one size 3 sample and one size 4. As designed, I conveniently fit a size 4 as intended with 4” of positive ease. When I wear the 3, there is no ease at all because the garment and my body are both 40” in size. Comparing the 2 garments, you can see how the fiber content (cotton vs. wool) and fit (no ease vs. 4” of positive ease) makes a difference in the look and feel of the finished garment. 
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These samples are a great way to compare what ease looks like on different bodies. While I can fit both a size 3 and 4, the garment with no ease feels more like pajamas or a bralette when I wear it. On the other hand, when I wear the one with 4” of positive ease, I feel comfortable enough to wear it to work, even as a crop top. Plus, it leaves me with enough room to layer it with a nice button down if I’m not feeling the cropped look one day. 
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I’m curious - how would you style this tank? Would you modify it with a few stockinette rows for added length? I’m so curious now that this pattern is finally out in the world. :) 
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #bevelledtank #handsoccupied #knitting #intarisa #handmade #kelbournewoolens #croppedsweater #summerknits
After a 6 month hiatus, I am happy to say I’m ba After a 6 month hiatus, I am happy to say I’m back with a brand new pattern in 9 sizes, and it’s FREE as part of @pompommag x @hobbii_yarn’s summer design collection! (Link is in my bio.)
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In my December newsletter, I announced that I was soliciting test knitters for a pattern that had originally been selected for the summer ’24 issue of Pom Pom Quarterly magazine. However, the magazine ceased publication after its spring ’24 issue, leaving in-progress designs unpublished. (It happens.) As a result, I’d begun the long process of editing, testing, and photographing the pattern for independent release through the Hands Occupied pattern shop and Ravelry.
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Before I was done with that process, Pom Pom Quarterly’s former editors reached out with an exciting proposal for the pattern. Post-magazine, they’ve begun to partner with yarn companies to produce high quality pattern collections. They wanted to include designs from the would-be current issue of Pom Pom Quarterly in a new collection for Hobbii yarn, including my Bevelled Tank. I worked with the same technical editors I would have for the magazine on this one, and as you can see from the photos, Pom Pom’s team did an amazing job of styling the garment to the beautiful standards they’re known for.
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You can learn more about the pattern on my blog and get the free pattern from Hobbii yarn - links to both in my profile. I’ll post sizing info in the comments for quick reference too. 🧶
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #knitting #intarsia #sponsored #colorworkknitting 
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Photos: @dianascarrunz 
Model: @angel.jade_
Here’s a nice throwback for you: my take on a vi Here’s a nice throwback for you: my take on a vintage knitting pattern from 1938 called the Fernlace Pullover. A pattern so nice, I knit it twice.
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Yellow version 💛: knit with Despondent Dyes’ Vintage Vixen Sport after attending a @squidneyknits vintage knitting retreat in 2019 & learning *so much*. Paired with a self-drafted circle skirt pattern. 
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Blue version 💙: knit with @eweeweyarns Ewe So Sporty in Sky Blue. Paired with the 1940s Boardwalk Duet sewing pattern from @decades_of_style 
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Head to my stories for 🔗🔗 to the handmade wardrobe blog posts I wrote about each take on the Fernlace Pullover, working with a vintage pattern, where to find vintage patterns (including the one I used), & some thoughts on sizing. 
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Image descriptions available in alt text. 
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#handsoccupied #handmadewardrobe #fernlacepullover #vintageknitting #vintageknittingpatterns #knitting_inspiration
Frogging is a word in the knitting world that mean Frogging is a word in the knitting world that means to rip out your knitting. It’s called frogging because frogs say “ribbit,” and when you’re tearing out your knitting, you will “rip it” out, and that sounds like ribbit. No really. 🐸 Did you know this fun fact? 
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P.S. I did like this design concept, but to make the pattern more knitter friendly as well as more wearable, I am making some tweaks to the construction. Excited to share when it’s ready! 🥰🧶
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Yarn: @blueskyfibers Woolstok North in Morning Frost & Highland Fleece 
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#handsoccupied #knitting #frogging #blueskyfibers #knittersofinstagram #blueskymakers #knittingvocabulary #bsfmakers #knitdesign
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