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Mathilde / Handmade Wardrobe

October 1, 2019 2 Comments

Opinions are my own. This post contains affiliate links. Read our site policies.

Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.

Tackling sewing tops was at, well, the top of my summer making list. As an intermediate sewist, it was starting to feel like time for a challenge, and techniques found in a lot of women’s shirt patterns seemed like right thing to try next. Specifically, I’d only ever done buttons on my Boardwalk Duet, and for some reason French seams hadn’t yet crossed my sewing table… ever. Enter the Mathilde sewing pattern from Tilly and the Buttons, sewn in On Lines fabric , and finished with the most adorable vintage buttons.

Vintage buttons via Etsy
The vintage button set I used for this top. Image via nevadafuffsstuff on Etsy.
Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.
Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.

Fabric Selection

Being a smart sewist, I made sure to look through the Mathilde pattern hashtags and posts on the Tilly and the Buttons Blog for inspiration before making my official fabric selection for this top. A lot of folks went for an allover polka dot or solid for their Mathildes, but I was kind of wanting a striped shirt in my wardrobe, and I was hoping to find something to help me practice a bit of pattern matching as well.

In my fabric hunt, I fell in love with On Lines from Art Gallery Fabrics’ Aligned collection right when I saw it. If you know me or my style at all, you’ll not be surprised. The primary colors, interestingly-combined geometric shapes, and the overall barcode-ish vibe* were 100% calling my name.

*I am a former Librarian. ;)

P.S. In my search, I think I only found one other person who attempted stripes (probably because of the tucks across the front of this blouse). But I said screw it, I wanted an excuse to play with this fabric, and I figured I’d learn the hard way why people avoided stripes. As predicted, pattern matching wasn’t possible in most of the blouse, but again, I didn’t mind.

Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.
Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.

Thoughts & Feelings about the Mathilde Blouse pattern

I got a physical copy of the Mathilde pattern while vacationing in Denver because when in Denver, one is morally obligated to visit Fancy Tiger Crafts. And when you’ve been curious to try a pattern from a particular company and it’s right there on clearance, you really have no choice but to go with it.

I don’t believe the pattern is available in print any longer, but you can still get the pattern PDF from the Tilly website. An interesting thing about this pattern was that the instructions read more like a tutorial than an old-school sewing pattern. That, plus the instructive tutorials on the Tilly blog, make this an advanced beginner-friendly sew.

Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.
Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.

What I’d change

Once or twice I felt myself wishing the instructions were a little more traditional, but that’s more personal preference than anything.

As usual for my body type, the finished pattern is just a skosh too big everywhere other than my boobs and hips when I work from just a bust measurement. Lesson: It’s very clearly time for me to learn how to do a full bust adjustment from a smaller size to achieve a good fit in both the bust and torso.

Design-wise, I have two critiques for Mathilde. She’s just a little too short – how the heck will I ever wear this tucked into something? For my personal style, that’s something I need to remember and/or adjust for. Added to that, the sleeves are pretty voluminous, which rules for photo shoots, but it’s a lot of fabric near my elbows. (In literally every designer’s defense forever, though, I rarely wear jewelry or other getting-in-the-way things because I’m just that kind of gal.)

Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.

In the end

Hair-splitting aside, I really enjoyed sewing my Mathilde! It was a fun challenge to find a couple logical places to pattern match. French seams? Turns out they’re not so bad! And even though I’ll likely take in this top at the back for fit, this was my biggest and best button installation to date. My Mathilde makes a great canvas for some truly cute red flower buttons (found in this Esty shop), and it shows off some of this lovely fabric too. Looking forward to tromping around Chicago in this all fall!

Sewing the Mathilde Blouse: what worked? What didn't? And where can you find fun, fresh fabric to pair with some beautiful buttons for adding to your handmade wardrobe? This post has the answers.

Opinions are my own. This post contains affiliate links. Read our site policies.

Filed Under: Handmade Wardrobe, Sewing Tagged With: french seams, handmade wardrobe, mathilde, me made, Sewing, tilly and the buttons, vintage buttons

About Heidi

Heidi Gustad (she/her) is a craft book author & designer specializing in yarn crafts. Her work combines vintage and modern design elements, prioritizing color and graphic motifs. Her first book, Latch Hook: 12 Projects for the Modern Maker, is out now.

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Comments

  1. Patty McGuire

    October 5, 2019 at 7:30 pm

    Oh my gosh, Heidi!! It’s so beautiful! I have not attempted a top yet. I have done pajama pants, which I love and various house hold items and bags galore. But never a top. I want to try sewing from some of my other patterns first to get warmed up enough. I do love this version, and I think the stripes look amazing.

    Reply
    • Heidi

      October 7, 2019 at 1:51 pm

      Thanks so much! I think I’ve decided to take in the back right where the pattern isn’t currently matched but close. But the odds of that happening in the near future are… slim. ;) -H

      Reply

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Heidi Gustad from Hands Occupied / Craft Book Author and Knitting, Crochet, Latch Hook and Macrame Designer

Hi! I’m Heidi (she/her/hers), and I’ve been helping yarn crafters untangle various techniques on the internet since 2010. I got my start here, as a blogger, and since then I’ve shared more than a few tutorials here and on YouTube as I’ve grown as a pattern designer. 🧶 

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Heidi Gustad 🧶 knitting & yarn crafts

handsoccupied

Knitting & yarn crafts designer 🧶
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Stay up-to-date 💌 & shop new patterns ⤵️

POV: Showing you how my new Bevelled Tank pattern POV: Showing you how my new Bevelled Tank pattern fits with no ease vs. 4” of positive ease. There’s a bit more length to the cotton (brighter color) sample, but both are cropped and feature shoulder seams designed to sit an inch back onto the shoulder instead of on top, giving it a little swing. Length is easily adjustable for folks looking for less of a crop. 
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Pattern: Bevelled Tank by @handsoccupied for @pompommag x @hobbii_yarn summer 2024. Available for free from Hobbii at the 🔗 in my profile.
Yarn pictured: @kelbournewoolens Skipper and Camper. 
Dress form is adjusted to a 36” chest and ~5’3”ish in height. 
Human has a 40” chest and is 5’5”.
Both skirts are vintage.
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #handsoccupied #intarsia #handmade #knitting #colorwork
Let’s talk about fit and ease! . During the Beve Let’s talk about fit and ease!
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During the Bevelled Tank design process for @pompommag, I knit 2 samples using 2 different @KelbourneWoolens yarns. One was in Skipper (100% cotton, second photo) and the other was in Camper (100% 2 ply wool). The Skipper sample was knit for a 36” bust, which measures in at 40” with 4” of positive ease. And I knit the Camper Sample for my 40” bust with a 44” finished measurement. (BTW, I’m 5’5” for folks that find that measurement helpful in visualizing fit.)
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Based on the size chart for the Bevelled Tank, that means I knit one size 3 sample and one size 4. As designed, I conveniently fit a size 4 as intended with 4” of positive ease. When I wear the 3, there is no ease at all because the garment and my body are both 40” in size. Comparing the 2 garments, you can see how the fiber content (cotton vs. wool) and fit (no ease vs. 4” of positive ease) makes a difference in the look and feel of the finished garment. 
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These samples are a great way to compare what ease looks like on different bodies. While I can fit both a size 3 and 4, the garment with no ease feels more like pajamas or a bralette when I wear it. On the other hand, when I wear the one with 4” of positive ease, I feel comfortable enough to wear it to work, even as a crop top. Plus, it leaves me with enough room to layer it with a nice button down if I’m not feeling the cropped look one day. 
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I’m curious - how would you style this tank? Would you modify it with a few stockinette rows for added length? I’m so curious now that this pattern is finally out in the world. :) 
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #bevelledtank #handsoccupied #knitting #intarisa #handmade #kelbournewoolens #croppedsweater #summerknits
After a 6 month hiatus, I am happy to say I’m ba After a 6 month hiatus, I am happy to say I’m back with a brand new pattern in 9 sizes, and it’s FREE as part of @pompommag x @hobbii_yarn’s summer design collection! (Link is in my bio.)
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In my December newsletter, I announced that I was soliciting test knitters for a pattern that had originally been selected for the summer ’24 issue of Pom Pom Quarterly magazine. However, the magazine ceased publication after its spring ’24 issue, leaving in-progress designs unpublished. (It happens.) As a result, I’d begun the long process of editing, testing, and photographing the pattern for independent release through the Hands Occupied pattern shop and Ravelry.
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Before I was done with that process, Pom Pom Quarterly’s former editors reached out with an exciting proposal for the pattern. Post-magazine, they’ve begun to partner with yarn companies to produce high quality pattern collections. They wanted to include designs from the would-be current issue of Pom Pom Quarterly in a new collection for Hobbii yarn, including my Bevelled Tank. I worked with the same technical editors I would have for the magazine on this one, and as you can see from the photos, Pom Pom’s team did an amazing job of styling the garment to the beautiful standards they’re known for.
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You can learn more about the pattern on my blog and get the free pattern from Hobbii yarn - links to both in my profile. I’ll post sizing info in the comments for quick reference too. 🧶
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#pompomxhobbiisummer2024 #knitting #intarsia #sponsored #colorworkknitting 
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Photos: @dianascarrunz 
Model: @angel.jade_
Here’s a nice throwback for you: my take on a vi Here’s a nice throwback for you: my take on a vintage knitting pattern from 1938 called the Fernlace Pullover. A pattern so nice, I knit it twice.
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Yellow version 💛: knit with Despondent Dyes’ Vintage Vixen Sport after attending a @squidneyknits vintage knitting retreat in 2019 & learning *so much*. Paired with a self-drafted circle skirt pattern. 
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Blue version 💙: knit with @eweeweyarns Ewe So Sporty in Sky Blue. Paired with the 1940s Boardwalk Duet sewing pattern from @decades_of_style 
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Head to my stories for 🔗🔗 to the handmade wardrobe blog posts I wrote about each take on the Fernlace Pullover, working with a vintage pattern, where to find vintage patterns (including the one I used), & some thoughts on sizing. 
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Image descriptions available in alt text. 
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#handsoccupied #handmadewardrobe #fernlacepullover #vintageknitting #vintageknittingpatterns #knitting_inspiration
Frogging is a word in the knitting world that mean Frogging is a word in the knitting world that means to rip out your knitting. It’s called frogging because frogs say “ribbit,” and when you’re tearing out your knitting, you will “rip it” out, and that sounds like ribbit. No really. 🐸 Did you know this fun fact? 
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P.S. I did like this design concept, but to make the pattern more knitter friendly as well as more wearable, I am making some tweaks to the construction. Excited to share when it’s ready! 🥰🧶
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Yarn: @blueskyfibers Woolstok North in Morning Frost & Highland Fleece 
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#handsoccupied #knitting #frogging #blueskyfibers #knittersofinstagram #blueskymakers #knittingvocabulary #bsfmakers #knitdesign
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